Total Block Lotion combines protection from multiple forms of ultraviolet radiation (UVR), along with cellular oxidation reactions and even atmospheric environmental damage. Total Block Lotions offer total protection for continuous use, either as an elegant cover-up liquid make-up or a clear version.
Total Block Tinted SPF 60 make-up is an individually customizable, liquid make-up foundation that can be color adjusted to match almost any skin tone while completely protecting the skin from the damaging UVB/UVA.
Total Block SPF 60’s tinted base is a medium neutral shade that will match approximately 50% of the population’s skin tone. To match a lighter or darker skin tone simply add a few drops of the color control adjustors directly to the base, resulting in a color that matches an individuals skin tone. These dark and light color control adjustors are included with each package of Total Block SPF 60 Make-up.
Total Block SPF 60 Tinted may be used as a foundation make-up/camouflage
cover-up for skin imperfections such as, Melasma, Vitiligo, post laser surgery,
post skin cancer removal, hyperpigmentation, discoid Lupus or any condition
where the skin requires camouflage make-up, including Rosacea.
To obtain a more yellow tone, start by adding dark concentrate first and then
bring it back towards yellow by adding the light concentrate. To achieve a
more yellow tone, add 3-4 drops of dark color concentrate and 8-9 drops of
light. Shake very well. Repeat as necessary.
TOTAL BLOCK incorporates eight forms of mill-dispersed solids, ranging in controlled particle-size from 10 microns down to a few nanometers. These particles are suspended homogeneously to achieve maximum protection throughout the entire UVB/UVA range. Micro dispersed particles shield the skin from atmospheric damage and trauma. Eight forms of micronized and sub-micronized particles of Titanium Dioxide, sub-micronized Zinc Oxide, along with ultra micronized Iron Oxide form the foundation for a wall of reflection and refraction.
Physical Particles of Total Block
Protecting the skin from the adverse effects of UVB and UVA is the
primary objective, and our micronized particles of titanium dioxide and zinc
oxide form the first line of defense. To further increase protection against
UVB and UVA, physical blockers known as extenders (particles that extend the
effectiveness of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) such as mica and talcum must
be included.
Physical blockers fall into three categories; direct physical blockers, indirect physical blockers and polymers. Most direct physical blockers are compounds of metals that occur naturally, however, some are man-made. Indirect physical blockers increase the distribution of direct blockers while polymers increase the length of the pathway that the sun’s rays must travel to reach the skin.
Direct Physical Blockers
Research has demonstrated that physical blockers offer a defense against multiple
wavelengths of light, regardless of their particle size. Metal-based materials
act as a “heat sink” reducing the heat effect onto the skin.
In addition to their photoprotective attributes, these substances assist
in
preventing windburns and skin damage from wind driven micro particles of “dirt
and grime”.
Titanium Dioxide
Titanium Dioxide is highly reflective and strongly scatters UV. It reflects
much of the skin-damaging heat, keeping the skin cooler, reducing damage
and its resultant photoaging. However, titanium dioxide leaves a very white,
opaque appearance on the skin when applied, especially problematic for sunscreens.
Opaque titanium dioxide highly reflects and strongly scatters all UV and
Visible rays. It also reflects much of the skin-damaging infra-red waves,
keeping the skin cooler, reducing “heat” damage and its subsequent
photoaging. Titanium dioxide must be micro-coated with its own protectant
such as silicone or aluminum oxide. By submicronizing the titanium dioxide
powder we create particles too small to absorb visible light (and also, some
portions of UVA)… thereby enabling products to be offered as sunprotectors
for the beach and swimming pool that help protect the skin from most UVB
and some UVA, but are invisible on the skin. Transparent (sub-micronized)
titanium dioxide works by absorbing, reflecting and scattering UVB and some
UVA rays to satisfy most users. However, protection against UV, visible and
infra-red is significantly limited when submicronized titanium dioxide is
the primary protectant.
Two forms of titanium dioxide were selected for Total Block. First is an opaque, cosmetic form that reflects and scatters most wavelengths of UVB, plus some UVA. Second is sub-micronized “transparent” titanium dioxide. This form of titanium dioxide allows for a much higher percentage while retaining cosmetic elegance, and achieving an increase in UVB protection. Together, these two titanium dioxides (differing only in particle size) obtain excellent UVB protection (High SPF) plus moderate UVA protection.
Zinc Oxide
Zinc Oxide has been used topically for centuries as a skin protectant
and wound healing adjuvant. Its ability to protect in the long UVA range is
much higher than titanium dioxide. Zinc oxide absorbs, rather than scatters
most UVA (titanium dioxide primarily scatters). Therefore, ultrafine zinc oxide “closes
the window” in the UVA range, left open by titanium dioxide.
It is a recognized mild antimicrobial agent. More than 50 years ago, zinc oxide was indicated as a potential block for ultraviolet light (UV-A). It also reflects IR from the skin, as does titanium dioxide. However, its ability to protect in the long UVA range is much higher than titanium dioxide. Zinc oxide absorbs, rather than scatters most UVA, while titanium dioxide primarily scatters these wavelengths. Therefore, ultra-fine zinc oxide “closes the window” in the UVA range, left open by titanium dioxide. Zinc oxide works to both complement titanium dioxide’s protection and extend photoprotection to the skin where titanium dioxide is insufficient. The optimal particle size range for ultraviolet blocking zinc oxide (without blocking visible wavelengths) is approximately 80 to 150 nanometers (1,000 nanometers = 1 micron).
Supplementing the opaque and “transparent” titanium dioxides in total block is “transparent” sub-micron zinc oxide (Z-Cote ?). Its protective abilities cover UVB and a majority of UVA radiation.
Iron Oxides
We commonly see iron oxide in cosmetics to give the cover-up color desired.
Cosmetic iron oxides are man-made to very high purity, color, and particle
size. Research has demonstrated that these cosmetic pigments not only add
color to the lotion, but also contribute significant protection of the skin.
Equally important, these metal oxides act as a “heat-sink” to
lower the heating action of infrared on the skin. Iron oxide pigments are
micronized powders that, by controlling the temperature and rate of drying
during manufacture are available in a number of shades and tones of red,
yellow, black and brown (and blends of these basic colors). These cosmetic
pigments (if incorporated at adequate concentration), when properly dispersed
in well-designed vehicles not only add color to the lotion (or cream, powder,
etc.), but contribute significant protection of the skin from all “light” forms
(UVC, UVB, UVA, Visible).
Indirect Physical Blockers
To boost the effectiveness of the various “oxide” particles
in
Total Block, special ultra – flat particles are incorporated. They themselves
are very small, pleasant feeling particles but much larger than direct physical
blockers. These overlapping particles increase protection on the skin.
Polymers
Polymers are the skin protective compounds in Total Block that assure all of
the “light” protective materials bond to the skin surface in
a multi-layer film, giving increased and uniform overall protection.
Polymers can be natural substances from plants, or synthetic substances such as micronized nylon. Certain polymers create a maze, or cage, structure that forces the light rays go thru a longer route rather than directly reaching the skin. This longer route helps to increase protection by either preventing some rays from reaching the skin, therefore greatly reducing its energy or by increasing the contact time between the rays and the organic filters and physical blockers. These polymers provide little skin photo protection, they do however, help to defend the skin from wind-blown dirt and pollution particles. Total Block Lotions’ myriad of “light” absorbers and blockers are further enhanced by still another unique material, caramel. Emolliency is extended by a patented SPF (UVB) booster, Elefac?I – 205 [octyldodecyl neopentanoate].
All US Food and Drug Administration organic sunscreens filter either / and UVB and UVA irradiation to varying efficiency. No organic filter completely blocks the UVB and / or UVA rays from the skin. Further, the actual protection offered by any and all sun-protective products relates directly to their level of concentration, the film thickness applied to the skin, as well as the careful, total coverage of the exposed skin sites.
Three organic chemical sunscreens (non-PABA) assure uninterrupted excellent UVB protection plus moderate absorption into a portion of the UVA range. These are well-known, safe and stable filters (oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene). All organic chemical sunscreens filter either UVB and/or UVA radiation to varying efficiency, none block completely.
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Octyl Methoxycinnamate is one of the most widely utilized organic UVB absorbers
in the world; it offers a broad protection in the sunburn region of UVB.
It has an excellent safety record, is moisturizing, water insoluble, and
adheres tenaciously to the skin.
Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3)
Oxybenzone is a water insoluble UVB absorber, which also exhibits UVA absorption.
It offers only moderate protection through both the UVB range and part of
the UVA, is quite stable and can enhance effectiveness of stronger UVB absorbers.
Octocrylene
An emollient, water resistant UVB/UVA absorber, octocrylene provides protection
in the UVB and lower UVA range. Most importantly, octocrylene is a very stable
absorber and both protect and augment other UV absorbers, while improving
their uniform skin coating.
Supportive cell protectants
Supplementary cellular protectants are not intended to act as primary UV absorbers.
Rather, they act to prevent damage directly and indirectly.
Six antioxidants and trace element additives are included in Total Block to
both augment the lotion’s UV protective activity and reduce acute oxidation
damage to the skin cells. Direct cellular protection is achieved by the addition
of a series of antioxidant free-radical scavengers. Tocopherol and Tocopheryl
acetate (two forms of Vitamin E) are recognized antioxidants, an effective
topical cellular protectant. Pycnogenol? (Maritime Pine bark extract), is reported
to be one of the most potent free- radical inhibitors, a vitamin C derivative,
and beta-carotene, are solubilized into Total Block Lotions
Vitamin E
As an antioxidant, it affords considerable protection to our skins’ cells.
Vitamin E “breaks” the chain-reaction of free- radicals before
they can cause destruction of the cellular membranes. However, it requires
a recharging assistant like vitamin C, otherwise vitamin E is rapidly depleted.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is one of the most effective antioxidants.
It has been demonstrated to moderately protect against UVB photodamage as well
as UVA phototoxic responses. Of major importance is the ability of vitamin
C to regenerate the lipid-soluble vitamin E, so that it retains its cellular
membrane protective activity. Combinations of vitamin C with vitamin E offer
greater protection against cellular damage from UVB/UVA exposure than either
antioxidant alone.
Beta – Carotene (B-Carotene)
This precursor of vitamin A, B-carotene is an excellent quencher of “singlet
oxygen” (free radicals) as well as free radicals that participate in
lipid peroxidation. B-Carotene has been reported to be of value in the treatment
of Erythropoietic Protoporphyria (EPP), a disease that causes photosensitivity
to upper UVA and sections of visible light (400nm – 450nm). Additionally,
there is evidence that B-carotene inhibits UV’ promoted carcinogenesis.
Anthocyanins / Proanthocyanins
These bioflavanoid-like antioxidants are found in vegetation such as pine bark
and grapes. These compounds are among the most active free-radical quenchers
known. Anthocyanin is known to increase the action of Vitamin C and supplement
the protective qualities of Vitamin E. Published reports describe the ability
of these highly specialized antioxidant bioflavanoids to not only potentiate
vitamin C, protect cells and collagen tissue, but to strengthen blood vessels
and maintain capillaries.
Selenium
Numerous publications describe the ability of selenium, to help prevent cancer,
including skin cancer and act as an anti inflammatory aid in cellular DNA
repair. It has also been reported that selenium reduces acute skin cell
damage due to UV exposure.
Chelates
Iron chelators have been proven to protect against cellular damage from free-radical(s)
oxygen. Topical chelate application prior to UV exposure is reported to reduce
and/or delay visible skin wrinkling caused by UV exposure, as well as tumor
formation.
Photoprotective Cellular Aids
Some materials indirectly protect the skin cells from lightwave damage by either
maintaining the UV absorbers on the skin surface, or by forming a maze like
film that tightly bonds to the skin surface. These materials, acrylates/octylpropenamide
copolymer and aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, significantly lengthen the
pathway of light trying to reach to skin, thereby reducing the light’s
ability to damage skin cells.
| Ingredient | Function |
| "FDA Approved Actives" | |
| Benzophenone-3 | UVB/ UVA Sunscreens |
| Octyl Methoxycinnamate | UVB Sunscreen |
| Octocrylene | UVB/UVA Sunscreen, SPF aid |
| Titanium Dioxide | UVB/UVA Sunscreen |
| Zinc Oxide | UVB/UVA Sunscreen |
| "Inactives" | |
| Acrylate /octylpropenamide copolymer | Water repellent film former |
| Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate | Enhances SPF & skin feel |
| Ascorbyl palmitate | Vit “C” derivative (antioxidant) |
| 5-Bromo-5nitro-1, 3 dioxane(&) propylene glycol | Preservative |
| Caramel (burnt sugar) | Color toner & SPF aid |
| Carotene | Vit “A” precursor, (antioxidant) & SPF aid |
| Cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl polyglucose | Skin protectant, emulsifier (binder) |
| Dimethicone* | Emollient, water repellent |
| Disodium EDTA | Color protectant, preservative aid |
| Iron Oxides | Absorb, reflect UVB/UVA-IR; colorant |
| Isopropyl/isobutyl/butyl parabens | Preservative |
| Linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine | Skin adhesive, emulsion aid |
| Maritime Pine Extract (Pycnogenol®) | High potency antioxidant |
| Octyldodecyl neopentanoate/td> | SPF booster and emollient; Patented |
| Polysorbate 20 | Emulsifier (binder) |
| Propylene glycol | Humectant (maintains moisture) |
| Purified water | Refined water |
| Selenium yeast derivative | Cell protectant & SPF aid |
| Simethicone | Antifoam & water repellant |
| Sorbitan laurate | Emulsifier |
| Talc | Dispersion aid (for solids) |
| Tocopherol | Vit “E” (antioxidant) |
| Tocopheryl acetate | Vit “E” (antioxidant), SPF aid & free-radical absorber/scavenger |
| * Total Block CLEAR SPF 65 | |
Total Block COTZ SPF 58 Contains Only Titanium & Zinc
We at Fallene are proud to introduce our most recent addition to the Total Block family of uniquely protective sun care products. COTZ is mineral based, utilizing ultra-micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as its active sunscreen ingredients. COTZ is excellent for the pediatric population and those who are skin sensitive to “organic chemical” sunscreens or fragrances commonly found in other sunscreens. This sunscreen is elegant, and leaves the skin soft.
Active Ingredients
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide
Inactive Ingredients
Water (Aqua)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate Benzoate
Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
Melissa Officinalis (Balm Mint) Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol
Talc
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG – 100 Stearate
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Retinyl Palmitate
PVP/Elcosene Copolymer
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Sorbitan Laurate
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Simethicone
EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Isopropylparaben
Isobutylparaben
Butylparaben
Iron Oxides
These wavelengths are the shortest ultraviolet rays, extending from 100nm to 290nm, and are the most carcinogenic. While the sun generates ultraviolet C, the ozone layer of the atmosphere screens out virtually all UVC from reaching us. Ultraviolet C may become a problem for those living at high altitudes, and with the depletion of the ozone layer through pollution, may become a real problem. UVC is photo damaging to the skin, causing skin burn with exposure. Artificial sources such as some mercury arc-welding units, and germicidal lamps emit ultraviolet C. These wavelengths can very efficiently kill germs, giving rise to their common name, “germicidal waves”.
These are the intermediate wavelength of Ultraviolet rays, and cause the initial appearance of redness, commonly called “sunburn”. UVB creates painful irritation, but is believed by many to be less damaging than tanning, the pigmentation changes caused by the UVA (320nm-400nm).
UVB primarily damages the epidermis resulting in skin redness promoting a thickening of the outer most layer of skin, the stratum corneum (our body’s attempt to reduce UVB impact on the epidermis). UVB is a promoter of photo aging. This type of damage is cumulative, potentially resulting basal cell and squamous cell cancers.
These longer UVA wavelengths, (near-UV) were once thought essentially harmless, contributing only to a “healthy tan”. Scientific evidence now indicates that this is not true. On skin, UVA induces cutaneous photo damage, dryness, uneven pigmentation, inflammation, skin darkening (tanning), photo aging skin cancer, and fine wrinkles. Even low dose UVA can reach to the underlying dermis, causing damage that results in wrinkles and sagging skin. UVA radiation penetrates deeply into our skin and is quite damaging. Furthermore, UVA adversely affects the deep dermis far more than the “sunburn” UVB rays, resulting in loss of the elastic it’s supportive collagen, and resulting in premature aging. Unlike the shorter UVB (290-320nm) wavelengths, UVA easily penetrates window glass. Interestingly, the amount of UVA reaching the earth, unlike UVB retains essentially the same energy level every day of the year, morning, noon, and afternoon with 10 to 12 times more UVA, then UVB reaching the earth’s surface at sea level. UVA protection is not numerically addressed although you may see UVA and broad-spectrum protection on a package. The SPF rating system does not predict the ability of sunscreens to block UVA wavelengths.
The most important aspect of UVA is the cumulative tissue damage that results from these deeply penetrating UV rays. Studies to date support the relationship of such UV exposure to the development of basal and squamous cell cancers, as well as pre-cancerous lesions. Recently, it has been reported that depletion of Vitamin A in the skin by UVA exposure may contribute to both photo aging and cancers of the skin.
- Deeply penetrating UVA radiation presents the same damaging effect to
the skin in mid-December at 9:00 in the morning as it does in mid-July at
1:00 in the afternoon.
- That is why those of us with sensitivities to light, whether the cause
is genetic, disease (such as Lupus and Rosacea) or drug related (as with
certain antibiotics and diuretics) or related to photodynamic therapy [PDT],
need year-round, everyday, morning-to-night protection from all forms of
light.
Visible Light (400nm – 760nm) CLOSE WINDOW
Nearly 50% of the sun’s radiation, reaching us at sea level, is within the visible range. As the name describes, these are the wavelengths that humans can see (Violet – Blue – Yellow – Green – Orange, Red, etc.). Distributed from approximately 400nm to 760nm fortunately, its energy level is lower than that of ultraviolet rays.
There have been a few published reports, regarding the research concerning photodamage caused by visible light. It has, however, been reported in prestigious journals such as, the “Journal of Investigative Dermatology”, “Cancer Research”, and the “British Journal of Dermatology”, that visible light is capable of precipitating phototoxic reactions, promoting DNA cross-linking and enhancing tumor growth. This lower energy has the ability to penetrate the skin deeper than UVA, reaching down within the dermis. Adverse skin reactions can occur within this visible light wavelength. It is a misconception to think visible light as being harmless to human skin.
Infrared- “IR” (greater than 760nm to 1,000,000nm) CLOSE WINDOW
Infrared goes from above 760nm to infinity (?), but most of the energy is from 760nm to about 1800nm, comprising more than 40% of the sun’s rays reaching us at sea level. These wavelengths warm us when we stand in the sun (perceived as deeply penetrating heat), and are emitted by stoves, furnaces, light bulbs, heat lamps, ovens, and space heaters. A number of studies have implicated Infra Red waves as photodamaging, and add to the UVB photodamage. Infrared has been known for centuries to cause cancers in some people. Cancers induced by such heat are referred to as; Kang Cancer in China, Kangri in Kashmir, Kairo in Japan, and Peat Fire Cancer in Ireland. Chronic exposure to infrared leads mottled pigmentation, loss of elastin elastosis, and the typical characteristics seen in photoaged skin. (wrinkling, sagging, leathery-feel).